Two weeks of no snow and elevated temperatures has reaped havoc on the snow levels in Chamonix. Everyday the snow line climbs back towards the height it knows so well through summer. With that, the heavy flow of tourists has slowed to a ignorable puddle, work hours reduce and once again the people of Chamonix have their play ground to themselves. 

Great, whats the point if there's no snow? Well thats the hidden ace of this place. Just when you've given up, the clouds trudge back in like moody crowds in grey trench coats, huddling around the Mont Blanc and those beautiful white delicate petals of snow flutter back down to the hungry below.

Its an odd time of year, daily temperatures soar above 15 degrees and drop well below zero at night. Getting the conditions right can be a guessing game and the heat causes all sorts of issues to the stability of the snow pack. Its easy to time it wrong and end up bouncing around on rock solid snow, chattering your teeth out or slushy snow waiting to let go and burry you in a heavy snow avalanche.

But get it right, and its a special kind of heaven, a phenomenon dubbed corn snow. a thin layer of slushy velvety snow over a firm base.  Its like laying on a bed, whilst someone billows and lays silk sheets over you. pure, hedonistic bliss.

As i spoke about in an earlier post, the trick is to be flexible,to have multiple itineraries ready and to choose them based on conditions. Here is my week so far:

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Monday: Snow storm. lots of snow and no visibility. 

Riding the snow pillows through the trees towards Switzerland. Trees help give reference to the terrain and the soft fresh snow makes usually daunting jumps playful.

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Tuesday. Suns out. fresh snow on the ground. 

La Vallee Blanche. a beautiful place to be enjoyed in good visibility. The snow here is so good and theres lots of space to get fresh lines...for all 17kms of it.

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Wednesday. More sun, snow starting to get wind affected and the valley is getting tracked out.

Ski touring at Col du Beaugeant. A beautiful walk through the natural reserve of the Aiguilles Rouges followed by a short alpinist traverse across rock faces on crampons and a short rappel into a beautiful secret valley, hidden from the sun and virtually untracked. 

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Thursday. Big sun, hot day. snow is sloppy, heavy and tiresome to ski.

Piste! haven't been on one of those in a while. teaching Robyn to snowboard. She learns quickly, but hates falling over. My girlfriends a shredding snow bunny!

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Friday. Big sun, no wind, soft snow

Kicker session on the 'Bord de Piste'. a short hike from the pistes, a steep landing of untouched snow, Bob marley wailing throughout the porta speaker, a few beers and a lot of shovelling.  the way to spend your time in the sunshine with your friends!

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So that's the week so far. Below are a few more shots that pleased me. as usual, to see the photos at full size, simply click on them